On January 29th, a significant portion of Mouna Ayoub's renowned haute couture collection will be presented at an auction titled "Dior Masterpieces," organized by Kerry Taylor Auctions in collaboration with Maurice Auction, held at Le Hotel Bristol in Paris. This event marks a pivotal moment for fashion enthusiasts, as Ayoub, a prominent Lebanese businesswoman and real estate mogul, is parting with approximately 126 exquisite Christian Dior creations. The collection, which includes everything from full ensembles to intricate accessories, offers a comprehensive retrospective of Dior's legacy, showcasing designs from the tenures of Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons, and Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Ayoub's decision to auction these cherished pieces stems from a desire to share the joy they brought her with new owners. Her four-decade-long journey with haute couture is not merely about ownership but about the profound experience of commissioning these bespoke garments. She views the process, from initial concept to final fitting, as an architectural endeavor, emphasizing the collaborative spirit and meticulous craftsmanship involved. This perspective underscores her unique appreciation for the artistry behind each creation, valuing the journey of creation as much as the final product.
The auction features a diverse range of historical and contemporary pieces. Highlights include a stunning 1985 Bohan tulle and sequin ballgown (estimated at 4,000-6,000 euros), a sophisticated lamé cloque Chiuri dress from 2022 (estimated at 6,000-10,000 euros), and Ferré’s architecturally precise 1989 bead organza gown adorned with a lily of the valley corsage (estimated at 5,000-7,000 euros). Galliano’s flamboyant and theatrical vision is represented by a cire metallic evening coat from his iconic 1999 "The Matrix" collection (estimated at 10,000-15,000 euros), while Raf Simons' conceptual approach is exemplified by a gilt embroidered 18th-century redingote from 2014 (estimated at 12,000-15,000 euros), known for its opulent contrast with minimalist underpinnings.
Ayoub's personal narrative is intricately woven into the fabric of this collection. During her first marriage, she acquired pieces based purely on instinct, often unable to wear them due to her then-husband's jealousy. Post-divorce in 1997, her approach shifted; she began ordering for specific occasions, a phase she found less fulfilling than her earlier, instinct-driven selections. One notable exception from this period is a Galliano for Dior satin, silk crepe, and lace evening dress with Masai beading (estimated at 80,000-100,000 euros), a piece she acquired out of sheer adoration despite having no immediate occasion to wear it.
Throughout her extensive patronage, Ayoub cultivated relationships with the various designers at Dior. She recalls Gianfranco Ferré fondly, who reportedly considered her "a gift from God for couture." She also strongly defended John Galliano during his controversial "clochards" collection in 2000, illustrating her loyalty and deep connection to the designers' artistic visions. While she never met Raf Simons, she admired his unique artistic vision and spontaneity. Maria Grazia Chiuri, whom she describes as "the wise one," represents the enduring elegance and reliability of Dior's modern aesthetic.
Despite this significant sale, Ayoub remains committed to the world of haute couture. She eagerly anticipates Jonathan Anderson's inaugural haute couture show, scheduled just days before her auction, and expresses her intention to continue supporting the craft. Her deepest fear is the potential disappearance of haute couture, an art form she cherishes above all else. This auction, therefore, is not an end but a new chapter, allowing these masterpieces to find new homes while Ayoub continues her lifelong dedication to the unparalleled world of bespoke fashion.